Parfum A by Lucien Lelong c1928

Parfum A by Lucien Lelong, launched in 1928, stands as an elegant and deliberate choice in nomenclature. The name "Parfum A" reflects Lelong's innovative approach to fragrance, aligning the letters with the fragrance family: "A" for ambergris, "B" for bouquet, and "C" for chypre. By choosing this naming convention, Lelong established a direct and intuitive connection between the perfume's identity and its essence.

The word "Parfum" is French, pronounced "par-FOOM", meaning "perfume" or "fragrance." The addition of the letter "A" evokes a sense of primacy, exclusivity, and simplicity, implying a fragrance of distinction and elegance. It conjures images of opulence and sophistication, resonating with the desires of women seeking to embody an air of refinement. The name, with its minimalist clarity, exudes an aura of modernity and timeless appeal.

In 1928, Parfum A emerged during the interwar period, a time characterized by both social and artistic transformation. This era, often referred to as the Jazz Age or the Roaring Twenties, was marked by dynamic cultural shifts, technological advancements, and bold fashion statements. Women’s fashion celebrated liberation with shorter hemlines, looser silhouettes, and an embrace of art deco influences. Trends in beauty and fragrance leaned toward dramatic, heady compositions that complemented the confident, modern woman.

Parfum J by Lucien Lelong c1928

Parfum J by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1928.

Parfum C by Lucien Lelong c1928

Launched in 1928, Parfum C was part of Lucien Lelong’s innovative trio of alphabetical perfumes, each designed to embody a distinct personality and purpose. Naming fragrances after numbers or letters was a popular trend in the 1920s, reflecting a streamlined, modern approach to branding. For Lelong, the choice of "C" had a clear intention: it stood for chypre, a fragrance family named after the French word for Cyprus, pronounced "sheep-ruh" in layman’s terms. Chypre perfumes are characterized by their intricate interplay of citrus top notes, floral heart notes, and earthy, mossy bases, conjuring the sun-drenched landscapes and Mediterranean warmth of Cyprus.

Parfum C, described as the "lightest scent" for the ingenue—a youthful, fresh-faced woman—was a delicate, airy floral chypre intended for daytime wear during sports or outdoor activities. It was a fragrance that harmonized with the sunlight, embodying the carefree, radiant energy of youth. In Lelong’s vision, Parfum C was associated with the color yellow, evoking sunshine, vitality, and optimism.

The 1920s, known as the Jazz Age or the Roaring Twenties, was a period of exuberance, innovation, and cultural shifts. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, both socially and sartorially. Shorter hemlines, bobbed haircuts, and bold geometric patterns became the hallmarks of flapper fashion, while the advent of modern sportswear introduced practical yet stylish garments for active lifestyles. Against this backdrop, Parfum C emerged as an accessory perfectly suited to the era’s progressive spirit.

For women of the time, a perfume called "Parfum C" would have been interpreted as fresh, modern, and versatile—qualities that resonated with the active, forward-thinking woman. Its lightness was in line with the trend toward subtler daytime fragrances, which complemented rather than overwhelmed. This was a marked departure from the heavy, ornate perfumes of the preceding Edwardian era, aligning instead with the pared-down elegance and functional chic of the Art Deco period.

Parfum B by Lucien Lelong c1928

Launched in 1928, Parfum B by Lucien Lelong was an emblem of thoughtful design and creative vision. The name itself reflects Lelong's innovative approach to fragrance, as he claimed to name his first three perfumes after their aromatic character. Parfum A, inspired by the warmth of ambergris, Parfum B, symbolizing the beauty of a bouquet, and Parfum C, embodying the freshness of chypre, formed a trio designed to resonate with women of different styles and moments.

In French, "Parfum B" (pronounced “par-fahm bay”) captures the essence of sophistication and femininity. The term evokes imagery of elegance and refinement, conjuring visions of soft florals, graceful gardens, and the serene charm of a fashionable afternoon. For women of the late 1920s, "Parfum B" spoke to a spirit of lightness and poise, an olfactory metaphor for modernity and grace.

The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, was a time of significant cultural transformation. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, reflected in shorter hemlines, boyish silhouettes, and a bold departure from traditional societal norms. The era was marked by art deco, flapper culture, and the rise of Hollywood glamour. Perfume, like fashion, was an integral part of a woman's identity, completing the ensemble and expressing individuality.

Parfum B, described as a "lighter scent for the sophisticated woman of fashion" and ideal for sporting occasions, fit seamlessly into the trends of the time. The concept of a fragrance tailored to an occasion or mood was gaining popularity, and Lelong’s trio of perfumes aligned perfectly with this philosophy.

Keep Perfume in Dark

A March 26, 1928 article in the Reading Eagle newspaper:

"KEEP PERFUME IN DARK, PARISIAN ADVISES. Air and sunlight may change finest odors, according to French expert. Have you ever wondered why the perfume on your dressing table seems to change odor week from week? Perhaps you have been puzzled by a fragrance which smelled agreeable at the time  you bought it, becomes commonplace or even unpleasant after you have used it a few weeks, writes a Paris correspondent of the Kansas City Star. 

Such thoughts may be considered a confession - an admission that you have not learned how to care for your perfume. These delicate scents for which fashion orders for modern  use particularly when they are of high quality, deteriorate and lose all traces of their original fragrance if they are handled remissly. 

"Always keep perfume in a dark place, advises Lucien Lelong, the Paris dressmaker whose study of perfume has resulted in valuable suggestions for its use. "Daylight will affect every odor differently according to its formula, and in extreme cases, the perfume turns bright red as soon as its exposed to the sun. 

Jasmine becomes black in the light, other flower extracts darken less noticeably, but as soon as they change color, even slightly, the perfume changes scent. According to Monsieur Lelong, certain chemicals suffer similarly as a result of exposure to light. If a product such as indol has been used in the perfume, it will form ether and emit a foul odor soon after it is allowed to stand in the sun. 

So carefully must the elements that compose a perfume be guarded that many of the more fragile extracts are bought in a discolored state by the perfumer to prevent darkening after they have been mixed. Discolored floral elements cost a great deal more than flowers in a natural state and they are reserved for expensive perfumes.  

The need is evident for keeping perfume flacons tightly stoppered. Air, sunlight will harm the scent and carelessness in keeping the odor airtight results in a noticeable loss strength and quality."

Parfum L c1931

Parfum L by Lucien Lelong was launched in 1931.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aldehydic chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lemon, aldehydes
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, cinnamon, cloves, orris
• Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, ambergris, labdanum, benzoin, musk, civet

The New Yorker - Volume 8, 1932:

"Parfum L is a gay adventure in perfume... sophisticated, smart and disarmingly persuasive. $3 and up."

Bottle:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Fifi Perfumed Sachet c1939

Fifi is the name for a presentation with Jabot perfumed sachet in the form of an elegant high buttoned Victorian boot, all housed inside of a fancy gift box. This was a holiday limited edition piece and retailed for $10, quite pricey for the day.

Parfum N by Lucien Lelong c1928

In 1928, Parfums Lucien Lelong introduced "Parfum N," a fragrance that embodied the elegance and sophistication of its era. The name "Parfum N" carried a mystique and allure that resonated with the romanticism and artistic freedom of the Roaring Twenties. This period, characterized by newfound social freedoms and cultural vibrancy, saw the rise of luxury and avant-garde in fashion and fragrance. The choice of "N" for the perfume was not just arbitrary; it held personal significance for Lucien Lelong, as it was named after his second wife, Princesse Nathalie Paley, whom he married in 1927. The fragrance itself was described as light and dry, reflecting the minimalist yet refined tastes of the time.

"Parfum N" would have appealed to the sophisticated elite of the 1920s and 1930s, those who frequented Parisian salons, mingled in high society, and embraced the modernist spirit. Its name hinted at exclusivity and understated glamour, inviting wearers into a world of subtle luxury. For those who wore "Parfum N," it represented more than just a scent; it was a statement of style and taste, embodying the essence of Parisian chic and avant-garde sensibilities.

The name "Parfum N" evokes images of Parisian soirées, where intellectuals and artists gathered to discuss art, literature, and philosophy. It conjures feelings of intrigue and allure, reminiscent of a time when elegance and sophistication were paramount. The fragrance itself would have been perceived as delicate yet alluring, capturing the essence of femininity and refinement that defined the era.

Orgueil by Lucien Lelong c1946

Orgueil by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1946. The name means "Pride" in French. Created by Jean Carles after the liberation of France from German occupation and expresses her pride for the French victory.

Lucien Lelong Perfume Factice Bottles

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong c1934

Sirôcco by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1934.

Passionnement by Lucien Lelong c1940

In 1940, the world was in the throes of the Second World War, a time marked by intense emotions and profound societal changes. Parfums Lucien Lelong, amidst this backdrop, launched "Passionnement," a fragrance created by the renowned perfumer Jean Carles. The choice of the name "Passionnement" reflects a deliberate invocation of strong, fervent emotions. In French, "Passionnement" translates to "Passionately" in English, suggesting a deeply intense and emotional connection.

The name "Passionnement" is particularly fitting for a perfume launched during wartime. It speaks to the yearning for passion, love, and intensity amid the uncertainty and chaos of the era. In such times, where everyday life was disrupted and emotions ran high, a fragrance promising passion and intensity would have resonated deeply with those seeking moments of escape and heightened sensuality.

Those who related to a perfume named "Passionnement" would likely have been individuals seeking to embrace or reminisce about passionate emotions amidst the challenges of wartime. The fragrance would have promised a sensory journey evoking images of romance, desire, and intense emotional connection. Its wearers would have responded to its allure by indulging in its rich and complex scent, perhaps finding solace or empowerment through its evocation of passion.

The word "Passionnement" evokes images of fiery romance, longing gazes, and intimate moments shared in secret. It conjures feelings of desire, warmth, and the intoxicating allure of love. In the context of 1940, it would have symbolized a defiance against the bleakness of war, offering wearers a way to immerse themselves in emotions that transcended the harsh realities of the time.

Interestingly, in the United States, "Passionnement" was sold under the name 'Tailspin.' This adaptation likely aimed to resonate with American consumers while maintaining the essence of passion and allure that the original name conveyed. Thus, whether called "Passionnement" or 'Tailspin,' the perfume would have continued to embody its core promise of passionate intensity, appealing to those seeking a touch of romance and escape during a tumultuous period in history.

Tailspin by Lucien Lelong c1940

In 1940, the world was engulfed in the turmoil of World War II. Across Europe, tensions ran high as countries grappled with the realities of conflict. It was a time marked by uncertainty, upheaval, and a profound sense of longing and desire amidst the chaos. Against this backdrop, Parfums Lucien Lelong introduced "Tailspin," a fragrance crafted by the renowned perfumer Jean Carles.

The name "Tailspin" was likely chosen to evoke the dizzying sensation of falling uncontrollably, akin to the tumultuous emotions of love. In the context of romance, "Tailspin" symbolizes a state of passionate abandon, where emotions spiral out of control, much like being caught in a whirlwind of intense feelings and desire.

For Parfums Lucien Lelong, "Tailspin" was more than just a name; it encapsulated the essence of love in its most tumultuous form. In the midst of wartime uncertainty, where lives were upended and futures uncertain, a perfume named "Tailspin" would have resonated deeply with those seeking an escape into passion and romance. It offered a glimpse of fantasy and indulgence amidst the harsh realities of the time.

Those who related to a perfume called "Tailspin" would likely have been individuals yearning for an emotional release, seeking to experience love and desire in its most fervent and consuming state. The fragrance promised an olfactory journey that mirrored the intensity and allure of falling headlong into love, capturing hearts with its provocative allure.

Balalaïka by Lucien Lelong c1939

Balalaïka by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1939.

Vintage 1940s Lucien Lelong Perfume Tester Rack

Vintage glass perfume bottle counter top tester set for Lucien Lelong, the bottle are not removable and are embedded in the stand.  The fragrances presented in this beautiful glass store display set are Indiscret, Sirocco, Orgueil and Tailspin. The tester rack may be made up of black Bakelite.

• Orgueil was launched in 1946.
• Tailspin was launched in 1940.
• Sirocco was launched in 1934.
• Indiscret was launched in 1935.

So this tester dates to after 1946.

Photo by ebay seller orange_pez78

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong c1934

In 1934, the world was amidst the throes of the Great Depression, a time of economic hardship and cultural shifts. It was an era marked by both resilience and escapism, where the arts flourished as a form of solace and expression against the backdrop of global uncertainty. It was in this context that Parfums Lucien Lelong chose to launch "Sirocco," a fragrance that sought to evoke warmth, allure, and a sense of exoticism.

The name "Sirocco" originates from the warm, dry wind that blows from the Sahara Desert across the Mediterranean Sea into southern Europe. Derived from Arabic (ṣarūq), the term "Sirocco" embodies the essence of a wind that carries with it heat, sand, and a mystical quality.

Choosing "Sirocco" as the name for a perfume was not merely about geographical reference but also about evoking a specific sensory experience. The scent aimed to transport wearers to a place of warmth and sensuality, reminiscent of Mediterranean landscapes kissed by the desert wind. It was a name that promised intrigue, adventure, and a touch of the exotic, appealing to those seeking to escape the mundanity of everyday life during a challenging period.

No. 7 by Lucien Lelong c1950

No. 7 by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1950.