Indiscret by Lucien Lelong c1936

In 1936, the launch of Indiscret by Parfums Lucien Lelong occurred against the backdrop of a rapidly changing world. This period marked the interwar years, a time of transition and uncertainty between the devastation of the Great War and the looming tensions that would lead to World War II. Despite economic challenges, the world of fashion and perfumery in Paris thrived, driven by a spirit of elegance and escapism. Parisian haute couture houses like Lucien Lelong were at the forefront, shaping trends and setting standards in luxury and sophistication.

Parfums Lucien Lelong chose the name "Indiscret" deliberately, reflecting the allure and mystery associated with the word. In French, "Indiscret" translates to "indiscreet" or "indiscreetly" in English, pronounced as "AN-DEES-KRAY." The choice of this name for a perfume evokes a sense of intrigue, suggesting something secretive and seductive. It plays on the idea of revealing something private or intimate, perhaps hinting at a fragrance that captivates with its alluring and provocative nature.

"Indiscret" would have been seen as an appropriate name for a perfume in 1936 Paris, appealing to a sophisticated clientele who appreciated luxury and sophistication. The perfume likely targeted fashionable women who embraced elegance and a touch of daring in their personal style. Those who related to the name might have been intrigued by its promise of allure and the possibility of standing out in a crowd with a fragrance that spoke of sophistication and mystery.

The word "Indiscret" evokes images of whispered secrets, hidden passions, and clandestine rendezvous. It carries with it a sense of elegance tinged with a hint of danger, appealing to those who seek to be memorable and enigmatic. The response to a perfume named "Indiscret" would likely have been one of fascination and curiosity, imagining the scent as a pathway to a world of glamour and intrigue.

Indiscret, introduced by Lucien Lelong in 1936, initially maintained its name without the letter "e" at the end throughout most of its production. However, a notable variation emerged around 1938 when the spelling "Indiscrete" appeared intermittently in vintage magazine advertisements. This spelling anomaly continued into the 1940s, suggesting a deliberate choice rather than a mere typographical error. The company's decision to temporarily alter the name likely aimed to emphasize a nuanced shift in marketing or branding strategy, perhaps to evoke a slightly different aesthetic or appeal to a broader audience. The trademark filing in 1944, claiming use since 1938, solidifies this intentional variation as a deliberate part of the perfume's identity during those years.

In summary, the launch of Indiscret in 1936 by Parfums Lucien Lelong encapsulated the spirit of its time: a blend of sophistication, allure, and a hint of mystery amidst the backdrop of Parisian haute couture and the evolving cultural landscape of interwar Europe.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original vintage version was classified as a crisp, green chypre fragrance for women. It features sophisticated florals including precious jasmine and two species of roses, highlighted with a warm carnation note, facets of citrus fruits, balsamic fern, and hot spice notes including a spicy blend of pepper, Chinese cinnamon, celery and henbane layered over sultry ambergris, sensuous musk and red sandalwood. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian mandarin, Moroccan neroli, tiger orchid, Calabrian bergamot, white peach blossom, caramel, Iranian galbanum and Tunisian orange blossom

• Middle notes: pepper, fern, French carnation, Jamaican pepper, Grasse jasmine absolute, cypress, basil, Grasse rose absolute, Bulgarian rose, French rose de mai, Chinese cinnamon, Zanzibar clove, Parma violet, Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, Portuguese tuberose, rose geranium, Provencal lavender and Florentine iris

• Base notes: resins, henbane, Florentine orris, Tyrolean oakmoss, red Mysore sandalwood, Atlas cedar, Java vetiver, Singapore patchouli, celery, Guaiac wood, white musk and South Seas ambergris

Original Scent Profile:

The fragrance opens with a vibrant burst of aldehydes, a classic perfumery ingredient known for imparting a sparkling, effervescent quality. This effervescence blends seamlessly with the bright, zesty notes of Sicilian mandarin and Calabrian bergamot, each adding a unique citrusy freshness. The Moroccan neroli brings a slightly bitter, green floral note, reminiscent of orange blossoms on a warm, sun-drenched day. The tiger orchid introduces a delicate, exotic floral scent, while the white peach blossom adds a soft, fruity sweetness that is both inviting and gentle. A touch of caramel gives a subtle, gourmand warmth, contrasting beautifully with the crisp, green sharpness of Iranian galbanum. The Tunisian orange blossom further enhances the floral bouquet, lending a honeyed, almost waxy nuance that wraps the top notes in a luxurious veil.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a rich tapestry of floral and spicy elements. The pepper and Jamaican pepper add a fiery kick, infusing the composition with an invigorating spiciness. Balsamic fern, an unusual note, brings a green, slightly resinous quality, grounding the floral aspects. The French carnation, with its warm, clove-like scent, harmonizes with the spicy blend, while Grasse jasmine absolute introduces an intoxicatingly rich, white floral character. Cypress adds a woody, aromatic freshness, evoking images of Mediterranean landscapes. The herbaceous notes of basil and Provencal lavender provide a fresh, aromatic lift, balancing the richer floral notes.

The floral heart continues to unfold with the luxurious, deep tones of Grasse rose absolute, Bulgarian rose, and French rose de mai. These rose notes, each with its own unique character, range from the velvety and opulent to the light and fresh, creating a complex and layered floral experience. Chinese cinnamon and Zanzibar clove contribute a warm, spicy sweetness, while Parma violet adds a delicate, powdery touch. The exotic, creamy richness of Nossi-Be ylang-ylang and the lush, intoxicating scent of Portuguese tuberose enhance the floral opulence, while rose geranium brings a rosy, slightly minty freshness. Florentine iris, with its buttery, earthy aroma, adds depth and a touch of elegance to the heart.

As the fragrance settles into the base, it reveals a sophisticated and enduring composition. Resins and henbane contribute an intriguing, resinous quality, with henbane adding a hint of dark, herbal intrigue. Florentine orris, derived from iris roots, imparts a powdery, woody elegance, complemented by the earthy, mossy richness of Tyrolean oakmoss. Red Mysore sandalwood provides a creamy, woody warmth, while Atlas cedar adds a dry, slightly sharp woody note. The earthy, smoky character of Java vetiver blends with the rich, balsamic tones of Singapore patchouli, creating a deeply grounding and sensual base.

Celery introduces an unexpected, crisp green note, adding a fresh, herbal edge to the base. Guaiac wood brings a smooth, slightly sweet, woody aroma, while white musk offers a clean, sensual undertone. The composition is rounded out by the luxurious, marine-like quality of South Seas ambergris, which adds a touch of salty, animalic depth. This complex and nuanced base supports the fragrance, allowing the various floral, spicy, and woody notes to shine through in a harmonious and long-lasting blend.

The Charm of Indiscret:

In various publications over the years, Indiscret by Lucien Lelong has been celebrated for its distinctive and evocative qualities. The Le Petit Parisien in 1941 described Indiscret as having a "disturbing charm," setting it apart from other fragrances in Lelong's collection with its bold and captivating allure. This fragrance was contrasted with others like 'Passionnément,' 'Impromptu,' and 'N,' each embodying different aspects of elegance and sophistication, with Indiscret standing out for its provocative nature.

Le Petit Parisien: Journal Quotidien du Soir, 1941:

"'Passionnément', by Lucien Lelong, is quite a confession. It whispers what the lips barely dare to spell.. 'Passionnément'. Each syllable flies away like a fragrant dream, in a complicit and silent echo. More precious is 'Impromptu', more tenacious too, evoking this XVII century with mannered splendors. 'Indiscret', on the other hand, as its name admits, has a more disturbing charm. As for 'N', mysterious as well as audacious, it suits the spiritual woman, while 'Whisper', all of sweetness and confidence, is a harmonious melody which seems like a distant song. Finally, 'Orage', a young girl's fragrance, fresh and light like a burst of youthful laughter."  

L'Amour de l'Art, 1950:

"Indiscret by Lucien Lelong: It is there, it circulates against your lips, in the corner of your ear; this fragrance is impetuous, but the scent of jasmine gently persists. In the car, at the show, on your fur, it accompanies you, different according to the hours although identical to itself and its bottle in the shape of a folded handkerchief seems made for those who seek escape at their fingertips."  

The L'Amour de l'Art in 1950 offered a poetic depiction of Indiscret, emphasizing its versatility and enduring nature. It highlighted the fragrance's ability to adapt to various settings, from the car to the theater, with its scent evolving throughout the day while remaining true to itself. The unique bottle design, reminiscent of a folded handkerchief, added a layer of charm, appealing to those seeking a sense of escape and adventure.

Combat, 1953:

"Balsamic fern, jasmine, carnation, carnation, two species of roses. As a base: red sandalwood and a spicy musk of pepper, Chinese cinnamon, celery and henbane. Not as discreet as its name suggests, this fiery perfume awakens desire. We think of the ointments that Ruth rubbed herself with to please Boaz and those that Judith used to better intoxicate Holofernes. Such must have been, in the Greek mystery, the irresistible odor of the wild beasts whose passage the Aegiptians smelled, among the burnt olive trees of summer." 

Combat in 1953 provided a detailed breakdown of Indiscret's rich and complex composition, including balsamic fern, jasmine, carnations, red sandalwood, and a spicy musk blend with notes of Chinese cinnamon, celery, and henbane. This description evoked ancient and exotic traditions, likening the fragrance to mythical scents that have captivated throughout history. In the context of fragrance, the mention of henbane may refer to its historical and mythical associations, rather than its actual use as an ingredient, due to its toxic properties.

Combat, 1955:

"Indiscret by Lucien Lelong: the greedy lips, the flowing hair, the starry eyes of intimate impulses, the body languid with a feigned weariness, to have it before your eyes, the one that is said to be fatal, you just have to breathe in it. the scent it leaves behind, perfidiously musky, but nuanced with the voluptuousness of the garden (the arrogance of roses, the exoticism of ylang-ylang, and the mystery of ferns bathed in caramel and chypre." 

In 1955, Combat further emphasized the fragrance's intoxicating and multifaceted nature, describing it as perfidiously musky with the voluptuousness of roses, the exoticism of ylang-ylang, and the mysterious essence of ferns.

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Indiscret by Lucien Lelong: warm and a little peppery. Very original. Persistent note: jasmine and ylang-ylang. For the woman of the world. She does honor to her husband when she goes out with him, and receives in a perfect way. Elegant, distinguished, 'the charming Madame X.'" 

Marie-Claire in 1937 positioned Indiscret as a sophisticated and distinguished fragrance, ideal for the elegant and worldly woman who embodies social grace. The persistent notes of jasmine and ylang-ylang contributed to its lasting appeal, making it suitable for special occasions and everyday wear.

The New Yorker, 1943:

"Lelong: His Indiscret, one of the spicier perfumes around." 

This succinct statement highlights the distinctive spicy character of 'Indiscret,' setting it apart from other fragrances and adding to its bold and memorable presence.

Atlantic Monthly, 1953:

"Indiscret perfume 2 ounces, $25.00 other sizes, $3.00 - $16.50." 

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

"'Indiscret' — flowers and spice, everything nice, blended into a most dashing, fetching fragrance, by Lelong. One ounce, $16.50." 

The Atlantic Monthly in 1953 and Harper's Bazaar in 1956 provided insights into the pricing and accessibility of Indiscret. The fragrance was marketed as a premium product, available in various sizes to cater to different preferences and budgets. Harper's Bazaar described it as a blend of "flowers and spice, everything nice," capturing the essence of Indiscret as a charming and captivating scent that perfectly balanced floral and spicy notes.

Overall, Indiscret by Lucien Lelong was celebrated for its unique blend of floral and spicy elements, creating a bold and memorable fragrance. Its various descriptions over the years highlighted its sophisticated, provocative, and versatile nature, appealing to women who appreciate elegance, style, and a touch of mystery in their choice of scent. The fragrance's ability to evoke different moods and adapt to various settings made it a beloved classic, cherished by those who wore it and remembered fondly in the annals of perfumery.

Bottles:

Frosted Bottle:

The task of designing a bottle and package that would give the new perfume maximum eye appeal was tedious to say the least. Partners Lucien Lelong and Joseph S. Stein, merchandiser for Lucien Lelong Inc. of Chicago, worked together to create a beautiful presentation. Lelong worked with fabric, draping it until both were satisfied, resulting in a bottle that resembled the soft folds of a skirt, with a bow tie for the stopper. This attention to detail and the elegant design highlighted Lelong's background in fashion and his dedication to creating a visually appealing product. The frosted glass bottle, manufactured in France by Verrières Brosse, was said to be inspired by a dropped handkerchief, adding an element of delicate charm and sophistication to the overall presentation.

Equally meticulous was the design of the packaging. The Lucien Lelong company devoted considerable effort to crafting a circular white box embossed with classic drapery motifs copied from Lelong's Paris salon. This luxurious and refined packaging echoed the elegance of the fragrance itself, enhancing its appeal to consumers. Despite the economic challenges of the Great Depression, Indiscret was a success from the start. The partners expanded the product line to include a cologne and toilet water, ensuring that the captivating scent of Indiscret was accessible in various forms. This comprehensive approach to product design and marketing demonstrated Lelong's commitment to excellence and his understanding of the importance of presentation in the world of luxury goods.

Woman's Home Companion, 1938:

"Parfum 'Indiscret,' in crystal draperies, one of the world's most favored perfumes. $5 to $60." This succinct yet impactful advertisement highlights the luxurious nature of 'Indiscret' by Lucien Lelong, emphasizing its beautiful crystal drapery design and positioning it as one of the world's most cherished fragrances. The wide price range indicates the availability of various sizes, catering to different budgets while maintaining an aura of exclusivity and elegance.

Femme, 1950:

"It is still the intoxicating smell of jasmine which dominates and persists without the exotic scent of the perfume of Lucien Lelong Indiscret which deserves its name by its impetuosity and its evocative power. Created for those looking for an escape within reach. His presentation is worth noting: Lucien Lelong, it is said, took out his handkerchief, looked at it and decided that he would make a bottle of it. This is how the Indiscret bottle was born, an original coating which adds to the charm of the perfume." This description delves into the enduring allure of 'Indiscret,' focusing on its dominant jasmine scent that captivates and transports the wearer. The narrative behind the bottle's creation adds a personal touch, with Lelong's inspiration drawn from a simple handkerchief, transforming it into an exquisite and unique bottle design. This combination of an evocative fragrance and a charming presentation underscores the perfume's ability to offer a sensory escape and solidifies its status as a beloved and iconic creation.

If your frosted glass parfum bottle with a glass stopper is missing its label, you can use this handy guide to determine the bottle sizes. Over the years, the sizes have changed, making it essential to note these variations. For example, the bottle for 3 oz originally stood at 8" tall but was later modified to 8.5" tall. Similarly, the 0.25 oz size was initially 3.5" tall but was later reintroduced as a limited edition size of 4" in 1997. These changes in height over different production periods can help you accurately identify the size of your bottle despite the absence of its label.

• 0.25 oz stands 3.5" tall (Ref. No. 500, No. 1 size)
• stands 3.75" tall
• 0.25 oz stands 4" tall (limited edition from 1997)
• 4.5"tall
• 0.5 oz stands 4 7/8" tall (gilded bottle, No. 2 size)
• 1 oz sands 5.75" tall
• stands 6" tall
• stands 6.5" tall
• Ref. No. 305 - 2 oz Parfum bottle stands 6.75" tall  
• stands 7" tall
• stands 7.75" tall
• 3 oz stands 8" tall
• stands 8.25" tall
• 3 oz stands 8.5" tall
• Factice stands 13" tall

Additionally, some frosted bottles come with a screw cap instead of a glass stopper.

• 0.15 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 0.5 oz bottle stands 5.25" tall.

Plaster Bottle:

Another fabulous bottle is the plaster-cased flacon which held Indiscret cologne. This exquisite bottle features an ivory-painted, plaster of Paris exterior over a glass inner core, combining elegance with a unique construction. The stopper, also made of plaster and fitted with a metal post, is designed to stay securely in place thanks to a cork liner in the bottle neck. Both the bottle and stopper are intricately molded with flowers and vines, simulating the appearance of carved ivory. This delicate design adds a layer of sophistication to the bottle, making it a true collector's item. However, care must be taken when handling these bottles, as the plaster is prone to chipping and flaking off after more than 80 years. The bottle stands at 8 1/4 inches high and 3 1/2 inches wide, making it a striking and elegant piece.

Woman's Home Companion - Volume 65, 1938:

"Lucien Lelong's 'Indiscret' Cologne... romantic... enveloping... in a plaster flacon. $3.75." This brief yet evocative description highlights the allure of Indiscret cologne, emphasizing its romantic and enveloping qualities. The mention of the plaster flacon adds a touch of elegance and uniqueness to the product, making it a standout piece in any collection.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 43, 1938:

"Lelong originally started using the plaster casing on the Indiscret bottle decorated intricately with tiny flower designs, which was brought out in 1936. The white plaster casing is again used on the Impromptu Cologne bottle and is carried out in the sunburst effect which distinguishes the perfume bottle and package." This detailed account provides insight into the origins of the plaster casing design. Introduced in 1936, the intricate flower designs on the Indiscret bottle's white plaster casing set a precedent for elegance and artistic craftsmanship. This design approach was later applied to the Impromptu Cologne bottle, featuring a sunburst effect that further distinguished Lucien Lelong's innovative and aesthetically pleasing packaging.

Other Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Indiscret by Lucien Lelong experienced a discontinuation at an unknown date, though it continued to be sold until 1959. After many years out of production, the fragrance was reformulated and relaunched in 1997. This modern iteration aimed to preserve the essence of the original scent while updating its presentation to resonate with contemporary audiences. Designer Marc Rosen played a pivotal role in refreshing the bottle design, retaining the iconic shape that echoed Lelong's original vision of natural draped fabric, while incorporating modern elements to appeal to a new generation.

This blend of classic and modern design elements not only honored the fragrance's storied past but also reintroduced it to a revitalized market. The relaunch positioned Indiscret as a bridge between its historic roots and a contemporary presence, appealing to those who appreciate timeless elegance and sophistication. The fragrance's return was celebrated at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, with plans for a European rollout the following year.

The relaunch was more than a mere revival; it marked a resurgence of interest in classic fragrances, contrasting sharply with the sheer scents that dominated the market in the 1990s. As Eileen Paley, vice president of product development at Parfums Lucien Lelong, noted, changes in the formulation were made based on the availability of ingredients, ensuring that the modern Indiscret remained true to its heritage while adapting to contemporary standards.

The woman who wears Indiscret is described as sophisticated, discerning, and gloriously feminine. She possesses a sense of style and a strong sense of self, exuding an air of glamour that is both compelling and refined. Her choice of fragrance is an extension of her presence, as memorable and captivating as she is. The relaunch of Indiscret was not just about bringing back a classic scent but about celebrating a timeless elegance and allure that transcends generations.

1997 Reformulation & Relaunch:

HAPPI, Volume 34, Issues 7-12, 1997:

"The famed French designer of the early 20th century, Lucien Lelong, originally launched his fragrances in Paris, then introduced them to the States. This year, Parfums Lucien Lelong, now owned by Arnold Hayward Neis of Englewood, NJ, is resurrecting the designer brand in New York's Bergdorf Goodman, with a European rollout slated for next year. Lelong's fashion and fragrance creations were recently the centerpiece of an exhibit at French Institute in New York. The relaunched Lucien Lelong Indiscret fragrance.... 

"Indiscret is back, Parfums Lucien Lelong, Englewood Cliffs, NJ, has relaunched the classic fragrance Indiscret, originally created by Paris fashion designer Lucien Lelong in 1936. When Mr. Lelong approached a glassmaker to produce the bottle for Indiscret, he demanded that it looks like natural folds of draped fabric. The floral fragrance is packaged in a recreation of the original design."

HAPPI, 1997:

"The relaunched Lucien Lelong Indiscret fragrance is a modernized version of the original. Changes were made based on availability of ingredients, explained Eileen Paley, vice president, product development at Parfums Lucien Lelong. The bottle, however, hasn't changed. Mr. Lelong created the original to look the way fabric naturally drapes over the body Like other revived classics, Indiscret is nothing like the sheer scents of recent years. "The trend is back to classics of fragrance," said Ms. Paley."

"The woman who wears Indiscret is sophisticated, discriminating, gloriously feminine. She has a sense of style and a sense of self, an air of glamour that is compelling yet refined. She wants her fragrance to be as memorable as her presence."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a complex fruity-floral fragrance for women. "Described as a complex, green, fruity floral, the scent features top notes of lemon, neroli, mandarin, galbanum, orange flower and Italian bergamot. The middle note includes basil, clove, iris, violet, tuberose, cypress, ylang ylang, Algerian jasmine and rose geranium. The drydown contains musk, amber, Haitian vetiver, guaiac wood, patchouli, oakmoss and sandalwood."

• Top notes: mandarin, orange flower, lemon, neroli, galbanum, Italian bergamot
• Middle notes: basil, clove, iris, violet, cypress, ylang ylang, rose geranium, Algerian jasmine, French tuberose
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, guaiac, scarlet oakmoss, Egyptian amber and other exotic essential oils 

Scent Profile:

As I experience the top notes of Indiscret by Lucien Lelong, a vibrant, fresh burst of citrus greets my senses. The mandarin provides a sweet, juicy opening, its bright and tangy aroma invigorating and lively. Orange flower adds a delicate floral nuance, blending seamlessly with the citrus to create a light, airy sweetness. The lemon is crisp and sharp, cutting through the bouquet with its zesty, refreshing quality, while neroli, with its slightly bitter, green floral scent, adds an elegant depth. Galbanum introduces a unique, resinous green note, bringing an earthy, slightly bitter edge that contrasts beautifully with the sweetness of the citrus. Italian bergamot rounds out the top notes with its sophisticated, slightly spicy citrus character, adding a touch of refined elegance.

As the fragrance develops, the heart notes reveal a complex and intriguing blend of floral and herbal elements. Basil introduces a fresh, aromatic green scent, its slightly spicy and herbaceous quality adding a unique twist. Clove provides a warm, spicy note, with a hint of sweetness that enriches the composition. Iris lends a powdery, soft floral touch, its delicate aroma creating a smooth and refined transition. Violet adds a sweet, floral note with a hint of green freshness, while cypress introduces a woody, resinous undertone, grounding the floral bouquet. Ylang ylang contributes a rich, exotic floral scent, its creamy sweetness blending with the other florals to create a lush, opulent heart. Rose geranium offers a green, slightly minty rose-like scent, adding a fresh and vibrant character. Algerian jasmine brings a heady, intoxicating floral aroma, with its rich, sweet scent enhancing the overall complexity. French tuberose adds a creamy, sensual floral note, with a touch of buttery richness that deepens the fragrance's floral profile.

In the drydown, Indiscret reveals a warm, woody, and slightly earthy base. Haitian vetiver provides a smoky, earthy note, its rich, grassy scent adding depth and sophistication. Sandalwood introduces a smooth, creamy woodiness, its warm, slightly sweet aroma creating a comforting and soothing finish. Patchouli brings an earthy, woody note with a hint of sweetness, adding a touch of sensuality. Musk offers a soft, warm undertone, with its clean, slightly animalic scent adding a subtle layer of depth. Guaiac wood adds a rich, smoky woodiness, its dark, resinous aroma enhancing the fragrance's complexity. Scarlet oakmoss contributes a green, earthy note, with its slightly leathery, mossy scent grounding the composition. Egyptian amber adds a warm, resinous sweetness, with a hint of balsamic richness that rounds out the base. The inclusion of other exotic essential oils enriches the base, adding layers of complexity and depth to this luxurious, multifaceted fragrance.