Lucien Lelong Perfumes: Parfum A by Lucien Lelong c1928

Parfum A by Lucien Lelong, launched in 1928, stands as an elegant and deliberate choice in nomenclature. The name "Parfum A" reflects Lelong's innovative approach to fragrance, aligning the letters with the fragrance family: "A" for ambergris, "B" for bouquet, and "C" for chypre. By choosing this naming convention, Lelong established a direct and intuitive connection between the perfume's identity and its essence.

The word "Parfum" is French, pronounced "par-FOOM", meaning "perfume" or "fragrance." The addition of the letter "A" evokes a sense of primacy, exclusivity, and simplicity, implying a fragrance of distinction and elegance. It conjures images of opulence and sophistication, resonating with the desires of women seeking to embody an air of refinement. The name, with its minimalist clarity, exudes an aura of modernity and timeless appeal.

In 1928, Parfum A emerged during the interwar period, a time characterized by both social and artistic transformation. This era, often referred to as the Jazz Age or the Roaring Twenties, was marked by dynamic cultural shifts, technological advancements, and bold fashion statements. Women’s fashion celebrated liberation with shorter hemlines, looser silhouettes, and an embrace of art deco influences. Trends in beauty and fragrance leaned toward dramatic, heady compositions that complemented the confident, modern woman.

Parfum A, described as a "heavy odor" for the "exotic woman," was a rich oriental fragrance centered on the luxurious and rare note of ambergris. This warm, animalic essence, often blended with spices, resins, and woods, would have been perceived as daring and sensual, aligning perfectly with the era's fascination with the exotic and mysterious. Its intense profile catered to women seeking a bold, commanding presence, particularly for evening occasions.

When considered in the context of other fragrances of the time, Parfum A distinguished itself with its targeted association with ambergris, a note synonymous with rarity and opulence. While many fragrances in the 1920s explored floral or chypre compositions, the emphasis on an oriental, amber-rich profile placed Parfum A among the more adventurous and niche offerings of the period, appealing to a clientele unafraid of making a statement.

Lucien Lelong’s approach to fragrance mirrored his philosophy of couture: perfumes should enhance and complete the ensemble, harmonizing with a woman’s attire and mood. Parfum A was intended for the statuesque woman, a regal choice for evening wear, corresponding to the deep red of the color scale. Parfum B, lighter and more floral, was aligned with sophisticated afternoon settings and a blue palette, while Parfum C, fresh and airy, was designed for sports and the outdoors, likened to yellow hues of sunshine.

Lelong’s vision emphasized a "totality of effect" – the idea that every aspect of a woman’s ensemble, from clothing to accessories to scent, should harmonize to create a seamless, expressive whole. Parfum A encapsulated this philosophy as a fragrance that not only adorned the wearer but also elevated her presence, making it an enduring symbol of elegance and artistry in the world of perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was described as a "heavy odor" for the "exotic woman", a rich oriental fragrance for women with a strong ambergris note.

Top notes: citrus, spices, orange blossom, cinnamon
Middle notes: jasmine, rose, gardenia, carnation, ylang ylang, clove
Base notes: patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, tonka bean, labdanum, civet, castoreum, frankincense, myrrh, tobacco

Harrisburg Telegraph, 1928:

"Lucien Lelong Parfums Exclusively at Bowmans" . Lelong contributes to the art of ensemble three Parfums in tune with type and costume. Parfum A, the heaviest of the three odors, for the statuesque woman. Parfum B, a lighter scent; for the sophisticated woman of fashion. Parfum C, the lightest scent, for the ingenue. Chic women will be glad to know Lelong Parfums are obtainable here."

Time, 1928:

"Lucien Lelong. At the head of the organization of a Paris dressmaking house is the designer. Under the designer comes the first vendor (chief ... "A," for the exotic woman (or the unexotic woman who, acting out of character, is attending an exotic affair), "B," the perfume for the sport; " C , "the delicate scent for the ingenue."

Scent Profile:

The journey of Parfum A begins with its dazzling top notes. A burst of citrus greets the senses, bright and sharp, evoking freshly peeled oranges and lemons under a warm sun. The zestiness is immediately softened by the warmth of spices—a mélange of peppery, slightly sweet nuances that add depth and intrigue. The sweet, honeyed aroma of orange blossom lends a floral brightness, while cinnamon provides a cozy, spicy warmth, grounding the lively introduction.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a lush bouquet of florals. Jasmine dominates with its narcotic sweetness, heady and intoxicating, conjuring images of moonlit gardens. Rose adds a classic, velvety elegance, its petals seemingly kissed by morning dew. Gardenia’s creamy richness and carnation’s spicy clove-like facets weave together with ylang-ylang’s exotic, slightly banana-like warmth. Clove reappears here, enhancing the floral tapestry with a piquant edge, deepening the opulence of the scent’s core.

Finally, the base notes anchor Parfum A with a symphony of rich and sensual ingredients. Ambergris, the star of the composition, exudes a marine, musky warmth that feels both otherworldly and intimate. Patchouli adds an earthy, slightly camphorous depth, while benzoin and vanilla envelop the senses in a resinous, sweet embrace. Sandalwood’s creamy, woody nuances blend seamlessly with musk’s velvety softness, creating an intoxicating trail.

The mossy greenness of oakmoss contrasts with the sweet, nutty facets of tonka bean, while labdanum imparts a smoky, resinous richness. The animalic undertones of civet and castoreum enhance the fragrance’s exotic allure, while frankincense and myrrh add a mystical, incense-like quality. Tobacco’s dry, smoky aroma completes the base, leaving a lasting impression of luxury and intrigue.

Together, these elements create a fragrance that is undeniably "heavy" in the most luxurious sense—a scent that envelops and transports, evoking the exotic elegance and timeless sophistication that defined Lucien Lelong’s vision.