Sunday, February 23, 2014

Parfum N by Lucien Lelong c1928

Parfum N by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1928, though his registration of the name claims use since 1922.

His first perfume was a light, dry scent called “N”, said to have been named for his second wife, the Princesse Nathalie Paley who he married in 1927 and divorced in 1935.

Renamed Taglio in 1945 for the US market.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is a light, aldehydic floral perfume for women with chypre notes of dry woods and peppered with dry spices. Iced tea, wet grass after the rain, gentian violets, gins and juniper berries provide a fresh skin cocktail that lingers on with traces of precious sandalwood, ivy leaves and geranium petals. Not too dry, reminiscent of a bouquet of fresh fruit.
  • Top notes: lemongrass, ivy, galbanum, lime peel, aldehydes, gin, bergamot, lilac, fig leaf, narcissus, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, geranium
  • Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, lily of the valley, magnolia, carnation, gentian violet, ylang ylang, rose, iris
  • Base notes: aloewood,  tea, orris, juniper berries, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, oakmoss, ambergris, tonka bean 

Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:
"'Passionnément', by Lucien Lelong, is quite a confession. It whispers what the lips barely dare to spell.. 'Passionnément'. Each syllable flies away like an fragrant dream, in a complicit and silent echo. More precious is 'Impromptu', more tenacious too, evoking this XVII century with mannered splendors. 'Indiscret', on the other hand, as its name admits, has a more disturbing charm. As for 'N', mysterious as well as audacious, it suits the spiritual woman, while 'Whisper', all of sweetness and confidence, is a harmonious melody which seems like a distant song. Finally, 'Orage', a young girl's fragrance, fresh and light like a burst of youthful laughter."

La Femme Chic, 1945:
"And since we are in the chapter of originalities, let us recall in passing the already famous, but always appreciated N de Lelong, so exceptionally successful in the dry genre; based on patchouli, oak moss, jasmine and lemongrass, N is the rare type of light and persistent perfume, which is suitable for the city as well as for sport."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"N by Lucien Lelong: Better than an's a capital that encloses in its jambs the entire atmosphere of Paris."

Combat, 1955:

 "N (eau de cologne parfumee) by Lucien Lelong - a little haughty, aristocratic, attractive, intriguing, here is the only dry perfume that is a great success. If platinum had a smell, it would smell like this. Tea, grass under rain, aloe wood, certain roots of stony land, ylang ylang, gentian, the peel of limes, this aldehyde also which smells of heated metal, ivy, morning mist, berries of junipers, gin, go into this kneaded potion, under the moon, for a Circe who lives in the Ritz."

Dance Magazine, 1931:
"Lucien Lelong has a new dry perfume called Parfum Poudre enclosed in an adorable flask resembling a very thin and very chic cigarette lighter. Highly concentrated perfumed powder in the famous Lelong fragrances, B, C, N and J sifts from the top direct to the skin. Sift a little lightly over your hands, arms, neck or where you wish. Smooth lightly into the skin and be confident of perfect perfuming that will last a long time."

The Delineator, 1935:
"Exciting as admiration ... and as necessary in every woman's life ... is a truly fine perfume PENTHOUSE, the most novel package you've ever seen, houses four of Lucien Lelong's perfumes — B, C, N and "Whisper". 

Fodor's Woman's Guide to Europe, 1954:
"Lelong, 6 Place Venddme. "Cachet"— luxurious; "Indiscret"— versatile, good with furs; "N"; "Orgueil"— seductive; "Passionnement"— just that; "Sirocco"— tenacious."

Fodor's France, 1958:
"Lucien Lelong. "Orgueil," a sublime floral blending; "Indiscret," their best-seller; "N," fresh, dry, light, and elegant; "Orage," combining jasmine and clematis, new success."


The first bottles used for Parfum N were the Meplat or "flat" flacon is a square bottle with flat stopper. I also call this the omnibus flacon  and was first used in 1928. 
  • Ref #: No. 708
  • Ref#: No. 707
  • Ref#: No. 706
  • Ref#: No. 705
  • Ref#: No. 703
  • Ref#: No. 702
  • Ref#: No. 701
  • Ref#: No. 700

It was also housed in the lovely "Amphora" flacon,  made of colorless crystal, its graceful, footed shape is crowned with a tapered dome glass stopper.

It was also housed inside of the Lalique "Skyscraper" bottles. Made up of frosted crystal enameled in black.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

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