In 1928, Parfums Lucien Lelong introduced "Parfum N," a fragrance that embodied the elegance and sophistication of its era. The name "Parfum N" carried a mystique and allure that resonated with the romanticism and artistic freedom of the Roaring Twenties. This period, characterized by newfound social freedoms and cultural vibrancy, saw the rise of luxury and avant-garde in fashion and fragrance. The choice of "N" for the perfume was not just arbitrary; it held personal significance for Lucien Lelong, as it was named after his second wife, Princesse Nathalie Paley, whom he married in 1927. The fragrance itself was described as light and dry, reflecting the minimalist yet refined tastes of the time.
"Parfum N" would have appealed to the sophisticated elite of the 1920s and 1930s, those who frequented Parisian salons, mingled in high society, and embraced the modernist spirit. Its name hinted at exclusivity and understated glamour, inviting wearers into a world of subtle luxury. For those who wore "Parfum N," it represented more than just a scent; it was a statement of style and taste, embodying the essence of Parisian chic and avant-garde sensibilities.
The name "Parfum N" evokes images of Parisian soirées, where intellectuals and artists gathered to discuss art, literature, and philosophy. It conjures feelings of intrigue and allure, reminiscent of a time when elegance and sophistication were paramount. The fragrance itself would have been perceived as delicate yet alluring, capturing the essence of femininity and refinement that defined the era.
In 1945, recognizing the need to adapt to the American market, Lucien Lelong renamed "Parfum N" to "Taglio." This change aimed to appeal to a broader audience while retaining the essence of the original fragrance. "Taglio" continued to embody the elegance and sophistication synonymous with Lucien Lelong's creations, ensuring its relevance in the evolving world of perfume.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is a light, aldehydic floral perfume for women with chypre notes of dry woods and peppered with dry spices. Iced tea, wet grass after the rain, gentian violets, gins and juniper berries provide a fresh skin cocktail that lingers on with traces of precious sandalwood, ivy leaves and geranium petals. Not too dry, reminiscent of a bouquet of fresh fruit.
- Top notes: lemongrass, ivy, galbanum, lime peel, aldehydes, gin, bergamot, lilac, fig leaf, narcissus, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, geranium, pepper
- Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, lily of the valley, magnolia, carnation, gentian violet, ylang ylang, rose, iris, ivy leaves
- Base notes: musk, aloewood, tea, orris, juniper berries, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, oakmoss, ambergris, tonka bean
Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:
"'Passionnément', by Lucien Lelong, is quite a confession. It whispers what the lips barely dare to spell.. 'Passionnément'. Each syllable flies away like an fragrant dream, in a complicit and silent echo. More precious is 'Impromptu', more tenacious too, evoking this XVII century with mannered splendors. 'Indiscret', on the other hand, as its name admits, has a more disturbing charm. As for 'N', mysterious as well as audacious, it suits the spiritual woman, while 'Whisper', all of sweetness and confidence, is a harmonious melody which seems like a distant song. Finally, 'Orage', a young girl's fragrance, fresh and light like a burst of youthful laughter."
La Femme Chic, 1945:
"And since we are in the chapter of originalities, let us recall in passing the already famous, but always appreciated N de Lelong, so exceptionally successful in the dry genre; based on patchouli, oak moss, jasmine and lemongrass, N is the rare type of light and persistent perfume, which is suitable for the city as well as for sport."
"N by Lucien Lelong: Better than an initial...it's a capital that encloses in its jambs the entire atmosphere of Paris."
Combat, 1955:
"N (eau de cologne parfumee) by Lucien Lelong - a little haughty, aristocratic, attractive, intriguing, here is the only dry perfume that is a great success. If platinum had a smell, it would smell like this. Tea, grass under rain, aloe wood, certain roots of stony land, ylang ylang, gentian, the peel of limes, this aldehyde also which smells of heated metal, ivy, morning mist, berries of junipers, gin, go into this kneaded potion, under the moon, for a Circe who lives in the Ritz."
Dance Magazine, 1931:
"Lucien Lelong has a new dry perfume called Parfum Poudre enclosed in an adorable flask resembling a very thin and very chic cigarette lighter. Highly concentrated perfumed powder in the famous Lelong fragrances, B, C, N and J sifts from the top direct to the skin. Sift a little lightly over your hands, arms, neck or where you wish. Smooth lightly into the skin and be confident of perfect perfuming that will last a long time."
"Exciting as admiration ... and as necessary in every woman's life ... is a truly fine perfume PENTHOUSE, the most novel package you've ever seen, houses four of Lucien Lelong's perfumes — B, C, N and "Whisper".
Fodor's Woman's Guide to Europe, 1954:
"Lelong, 6 Place Vendome. "Cachet"— luxurious; "Indiscret"— versatile, good with furs; "N"; "Orgueil"— seductive; "Passionnement"— just that; "Sirocco"— tenacious."
Fodor's France, 1958:
"Lucien Lelong. "Orgueil," a sublime floral blending; "Indiscret," their best-seller; "N," fresh, dry, light, and elegant; "Orage," combining jasmine and clematis, new success."
Bottles:
Flat Bottles:
- Ref #: No. 708
- Ref#: No. 707
- Ref#: No. 706
- Ref#: No. 705
- Ref#: No. 703
- Ref#: No. 702
- Ref#: No. 701
- Ref#: No. 700
Amphora Bottle:
It was also housed in the lovely "Amphora" flacon, made of colorless crystal, its graceful, footed shape is crowned with a tapered dome glass stopper.
Skyscraper Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.
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