Friday, February 21, 2014

Passionnement by Lucien Lelong c1940

In 1940, the world was in the throes of the Second World War, a time marked by intense emotions and profound societal changes. Parfums Lucien Lelong, amidst this backdrop, launched "Passionnement," a fragrance created by the renowned perfumer Jean Carles. The choice of the name "Passionnement" reflects a deliberate invocation of strong, fervent emotions. In French, "Passionnement" translates to "Passionately" in English, suggesting a deeply intense and emotional connection.

The name "Passionnement" is particularly fitting for a perfume launched during wartime. It speaks to the yearning for passion, love, and intensity amid the uncertainty and chaos of the era. In such times, where everyday life was disrupted and emotions ran high, a fragrance promising passion and intensity would have resonated deeply with those seeking moments of escape and heightened sensuality.

Those who related to a perfume named "Passionnement" would likely have been individuals seeking to embrace or reminisce about passionate emotions amidst the challenges of wartime. The fragrance would have promised a sensory journey evoking images of romance, desire, and intense emotional connection. Its wearers would have responded to its allure by indulging in its rich and complex scent, perhaps finding solace or empowerment through its evocation of passion.

The word "Passionnement" evokes images of fiery romance, longing gazes, and intimate moments shared in secret. It conjures feelings of desire, warmth, and the intoxicating allure of love. In the context of 1940, it would have symbolized a defiance against the bleakness of war, offering wearers a way to immerse themselves in emotions that transcended the harsh realities of the time.

Interestingly, in the United States, "Passionnement" was sold under the name 'Tailspin.' This adaptation likely aimed to resonate with American consumers while maintaining the essence of passion and allure that the original name conveyed. Thus, whether called "Passionnement" or 'Tailspin,' the perfume would have continued to embody its core promise of passionate intensity, appealing to those seeking a touch of romance and escape during a tumultuous period in history.




"This perfume is sold in the United States under the name TAILSPIN." This statement underscores the dual identity of the fragrance known as Passionnement in its original French market and Tailspin in the United States. Developed by Lucien Lelong, the perfume was tailored for American consumers under a name that resonated with the dynamic and adventurous spirit of the post-war era. Tailspin encapsulated the essence of the fragrance, offering an evocative blend that mirrored the excitement and allure of its French counterpart while catering specifically to the American market. This dual branding strategy allowed Lucien Lelong to effectively cater to different cultural sensibilities while maintaining the essence of elegance and sophistication that defined their perfume offerings.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was described as a floral oriental fragrance for women. Sweet, fresh fragrance with chypre background and spicy note.

It features a fern-like facet; combined with a marriage of sweet sandalwood and narcotic jasmine, layered over a pungent aromatic resin background suggestive of a medicinal (piney) chypre odor, then punctuated with fruits, fresh citrus and warm spices. 
  • Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Calabrian bergamot, cyclamen, bitter herbs, fruity notes, green notes, Szechuan cinnamon, Zanzibar cloves 
  • Middle notes: Chinese gardenia, Dutch hyacinth, French carnation, Alpine lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, Tunisian orange blossom, Dutch narcissus
  • Base notes: Tyrolean oakmoss, Aleppo pine, Ethiopian civet, Persian galbanum, okoume wood, Mysore sandalwood, Virginian tobacco, Atlas cedar, ambergris, Singapore patchouli, Tibetan musk, resins, wormwood

Le Petit Parisien, 1941:

"'Passionnément', by Lucien Lelong, emerges as a daring confession in the realm of fragrances. It delicately murmurs what lips hesitate to articulate outright—'Passionnément'. Each syllable floats away like a fragrant dream, resonating in a silent yet conspiratorial echo. Among its counterparts, 'Impromptu' stands out with its more precious and enduring allure, evoking the splendors of the 17th century with a touch of mannered elegance. 'Indiscret', true to its name, exudes a more provocative charm, while 'N', enigmatic and audacious, finds affinity with the spirited woman. 'Whisper', on the other hand, embodies sweetness and confidence in a harmonious melody akin to a distant song. Lastly, 'Orage', youthful and light like a burst of laughter, captures the essence of a young girl's fragrance."

Combat, 1955:

"Passionnement, a perfumed cologne by Lucien Lelong, rests upon a deeply chypre base, enriched by subtle notes of civet, cedar, okoumé, sandalwood, and jasmine. This opulent scent exudes an intense passion that can envelop a woman's entire being when applied as an eau de cologne. Its initially fiery intensity mellows with the blossoming of cyclamen and narcissus, underscored by hints of citrus fruits."

The New Yorker, 1951:

"Lelong introduces Passionnement, a brisk floral blend priced at $10.80 for two ounces. This fragrance from Lucien Lelong combines floral notes into a lively composition, reflecting a brisk and invigorating aroma."

Bottles:


Cue, 1956:
"For instance, Lucien Lelong found a way to offer fine perfumes at low cost. He simply removed the costly wrappings and presented them in a typical French- without-frills package. Since you can't wear the bottle, reasoned M. Lelong, why pay for it! Lelong’s Passionnement, a newcomer to these shores, was a favorite of Parisiennes for many years though it was originally high priced."



Passionnement/Tailspin Fluted Bottle:


In 1940, The New Yorker reviewed Lucien Lelong's new perfume creation, Tailspin, describing it as a fresh and feminine floral blend that matched the vibrancy of its packaging. The fragrance was praised for its buoyant character, evoking a sense of lightness and vitality. The reviewer likened the packaging to a stack of red, white, and blue poker chips, suggesting a playful and colorful presentation that mirrored the lively spirit of the perfume inside. This description highlighted Tailspin's appeal not only as a scent but also as a visually striking addition to Lucien Lelong's line of perfumes, capturing the essence of contemporary elegance and sophistication during that era. 

The bottle itself is clear glass with fluted sides, 
  • Ref No. 257 - 0.25 oz Parfum - bottle stands 2.75" tall
  • 1 oz Parfum - bottle stands 3.5" tall.
  • 2 oz Parfum - bottle stands 4" tall.
  • 3 oz Parfum - bottle stands 4.5" tall.










Other Bottles:

  • Ref. 3002 - 7ml Parfum mini 


Cologne:


A cylindrical bottle was used for the Tailspin Eau de Cologne. The plastic screw caps mimicked the poker chip design and came in either red or blue. The photo below shows the poker chip presentation box and the outer box.
  • 4 oz
  • 8 oz 
  • 12 oz 




Also, the long necked bottles were used for Tailspin cologne as well.
  • 0.25 oz
  • 1 oz
  • 2.5 oz
  • 4 oz
  • 8 oz




Another bottle was tall, with six sides, four of the sides are curved.
  • 8 oz 


Other Bottles:











Fate of the Fragrance:


Passionnement, also known as Tailspin in English markets, was a fragrance by Lucien Lelong that captured the essence of its era with a blend of allure and sophistication. Launched with the intent to evoke a sense of passion and excitement, this perfume resonated with its consumers, becoming a staple of luxury and elegance during its active years. Despite its initial success, Passionnement eventually faced discontinuation for reasons that remain unspecified, marking the end of its production. However, its popularity endured, evidenced by its continued availability for purchase as late as 1956, showcasing its lasting impact and the enduring appeal of its captivating scent.

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