Lucien Lelong Perfumes: Parfum B by Lucien Lelong c1928

Launched in 1928, Parfum B by Lucien Lelong was an emblem of thoughtful design and creative vision. The name itself reflects Lelong's innovative approach to fragrance, as he claimed to name his first three perfumes after their aromatic character. Parfum A, inspired by the warmth of ambergris, Parfum B, symbolizing the beauty of a bouquet, and Parfum C, embodying the freshness of chypre, formed a trio designed to resonate with women of different styles and moments.

In French, "Parfum B" (pronounced “par-fahm bay”) captures the essence of sophistication and femininity. The term evokes imagery of elegance and refinement, conjuring visions of soft florals, graceful gardens, and the serene charm of a fashionable afternoon. For women of the late 1920s, "Parfum B" spoke to a spirit of lightness and poise, an olfactory metaphor for modernity and grace.

The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, was a time of significant cultural transformation. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, reflected in shorter hemlines, boyish silhouettes, and a bold departure from traditional societal norms. The era was marked by art deco, flapper culture, and the rise of Hollywood glamour. Perfume, like fashion, was an integral part of a woman's identity, completing the ensemble and expressing individuality.

Parfum B, described as a "lighter scent for the sophisticated woman of fashion" and ideal for sporting occasions, fit seamlessly into the trends of the time. The concept of a fragrance tailored to an occasion or mood was gaining popularity, and Lelong’s trio of perfumes aligned perfectly with this philosophy.

As a "lighter floral bouquet," Parfum B would have conveyed the effortless charm and vitality associated with afternoon engagements and casual elegance. The fragrance’s association with blue in Lelong’s color harmony—a hopeful, merry shade—added an emotional resonance, suggesting calm sophistication and a touch of whimsy. This color-coded approach mirrored modernism’s emphasis on unity and purpose, aligning fragrance with fashion in a harmonious ensemble.

Within the competitive fragrance market of the late 1920s, Parfum B stood out for its carefully curated purpose and its connection to couture. While floral bouquets were a popular theme in perfumery, Lelong’s positioning of the fragrance as part of a holistic, color-coded ensemble distinguished it from competitors. It wasn't just a scent; it was a lifestyle statement, reinforcing the idea that perfume was as vital as the perfect dress or accessory in completing a woman’s presence.

Lelong’s explanation of his perfumes as "harmonies that correspond to the primary colors" reflects his artistic sensibility and commitment to crafting fragrances with a narrative. Parfum B, linked to blue, embodied the poised confidence of the modern woman who balanced refinement with practicality. Its lightness made it suitable for everyday wear, yet it retained the sophistication expected from a couturier’s creation.

Women of the time would have related deeply to this concept. In an era of vibrant social change and artistic experimentation, a perfume like Parfum B resonated as a symbol of innovation and elegance. Its floral bouquet, tailored for afternoons and sports, aligned perfectly with the evolving lifestyles and aspirations of the 1920s woman, encapsulating her desire for both beauty and individuality.

Lucien Lelong’s philosophy of integrating fragrance into the ensemble underscored his unique contribution to perfumery. He recognized that scent was not merely an accessory but an integral part of a woman’s presence, enhancing her wardrobe and reflecting her persona. Parfum B, with its light floral charm, remains a testament to this vision, embodying the art of balance, harmony, and the timeless allure of the fashionable woman.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was described as a "lighter scent" for the "sophisticated woman of fashion" and for "afternoon costumes", a light floral bouquet fragrance for women.

Top notes: lemon, neroli, aldehydes, bergamot, aromatic notes, lily of the valley, jonquil
Middle notes: ylang ylang, hyacinth, violet, jasmine, rose, lavender, galbanum, peony, freesia, violet leaf, orris
Base notes: cedar, vetiver, resins, balsams, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, ambergris, benzoin, and musk

Harrisburg Telegraph, 1928:

"Lucien Lelong Parfums Exclusively at Bowmans" . Lelong contributes to the art of ensemble three Parfums in tune with type and costume. Parfum A, the heaviest of the three odors, for the statuesque woman. Parfum B, a lighter scent; for the sophisticated woman of fashion. Parfum C, the lightest scent, for the ingenue. Chic women will be glad to know Lelong Parfums are obtainable here."

Time, 1928:

"Lucien Lelong. At the head of the organization of a Paris dressmaking house is the designer. Under the designer comes the first vendor (chief ... "A," for the exotic woman (or the unexotic woman who, acting out of character, is attending an exotic affair), "B," the perfume for the sport; " C , "the delicate scent for the ingenue."

Scent Profile:

The opening of Parfum B is a lively, effervescent symphony that awakens the senses. The zest of lemon introduces a crisp, sunlit freshness, its brightness softened by the honeyed sweetness of neroli. There’s an airy, almost sparkling quality brought by aldehydes, lending the fragrance a sense of modernity and upliftment. Bergamot adds a gentle citrus complexity, its green, slightly bitter edge balancing the sweetness. As the citrusy brilliance unfolds, subtle aromatic whispers drift in, bringing a delicate herbaceous coolness. The soft floral presence of lily of the valley peeks through, its tender, dewy scent evoking the purity of spring mornings, while jonquil contributes a touch of wild, green-floral depth, grounding the airy top notes with a hint of warmth.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals an opulent floral bouquet. Ylang-ylang greets the senses with its creamy, exotic richness, blending harmoniously with the cool, aquatic tones of hyacinth. Violet offers a soft, powdery elegance, balanced by the narcotic allure of jasmine, which lends a luminous, almost velvet-like quality. A classic rose emerges, adding a timeless romance to the composition, while lavender provides a calming, slightly camphorous touch. Galbanum introduces a green, resinous sharpness, contrasting beautifully with the soft, airy charm of peony and the light sweetness of freesia. Violet leaf deepens the verdancy, while orris contributes a luxurious, root-like earthiness, adding texture and sophistication to the floral ensemble.

The base of Parfum B envelops you in a warm, grounding embrace. Cedar provides a dry, woody backbone, its smoothness complemented by the grassy, smoky nuances of vetiver. Resins and balsams add a resinous warmth, their golden sweetness enriched by the creamy, milky aroma of sandalwood. Oakmoss introduces a green, earthy facet, tying the fragrance to nature, while patchouli adds depth with its dark, woody richness. Ambergris imparts a salty, slightly animalic warmth, blending seamlessly with the soft, powdery sweetness of benzoin. Finally, musk weaves through the base, leaving a delicate, sensual trail that lingers like a second skin.

Parfum B unfolds like a sunlit afternoon in an exquisite garden, where every note is a deliberate brushstroke in a harmonious masterpiece. The fragrance begins with a joyful brightness, transitions into a lush floral heart brimming with sophistication, and ends with an enveloping, warm base that whispers of elegance and poise. It captures the essence of a woman dressed for a leisurely afternoon, exuding lightness, grace, and effortless sophistication.