Launched in 1928, Parfum C was part of Lucien Lelong’s innovative trio of alphabetical perfumes, each designed to embody a distinct personality and purpose. Naming fragrances after numbers or letters was a popular trend in the 1920s, reflecting a streamlined, modern approach to branding. For Lelong, the choice of "C" had a clear intention: it stood for chypre, a fragrance family named after the French word for Cyprus, pronounced "sheep-ruh" in layman’s terms. Chypre perfumes are characterized by their intricate interplay of citrus top notes, floral heart notes, and earthy, mossy bases, conjuring the sun-drenched landscapes and Mediterranean warmth of Cyprus.
Parfum C, described as the "lightest scent" for the ingenue—a youthful, fresh-faced woman—was a delicate, airy floral chypre intended for daytime wear during sports or outdoor activities. It was a fragrance that harmonized with the sunlight, embodying the carefree, radiant energy of youth. In Lelong’s vision, Parfum C was associated with the color yellow, evoking sunshine, vitality, and optimism.
The 1920s, known as the Jazz Age or the Roaring Twenties, was a period of exuberance, innovation, and cultural shifts. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, both socially and sartorially. Shorter hemlines, bobbed haircuts, and bold geometric patterns became the hallmarks of flapper fashion, while the advent of modern sportswear introduced practical yet stylish garments for active lifestyles. Against this backdrop, Parfum C emerged as an accessory perfectly suited to the era’s progressive spirit.
For women of the time, a perfume called "Parfum C" would have been interpreted as fresh, modern, and versatile—qualities that resonated with the active, forward-thinking woman. Its lightness was in line with the trend toward subtler daytime fragrances, which complemented rather than overwhelmed. This was a marked departure from the heavy, ornate perfumes of the preceding Edwardian era, aligning instead with the pared-down elegance and functional chic of the Art Deco period.
Lelong’s trio of perfumes—A, B, and C—offered a revolutionary perspective on fragrance as an integral part of a woman’s ensemble. He believed that just as colors harmonize with clothing, perfumes should align with the wearer’s activity and attire. Parfum A, rich and regal, was for evening gowns; Parfum B, sophisticated and lively, suited afternoon costumes; and Parfum C, radiant and delicate, complemented the simplicity and energy of sportswear. This concept of "perfume harmonies," corresponding to primary colors—red, blue, and yellow—introduced a mathematical and artistic precision to perfumery.
Parfum C’s composition reflected its light, youthful character. Its top notes sparkled with citrus brightness, likely blending bergamot and lemon to evoke the freshness of an open field on a sunny morning. These were tempered by delicate florals and green nuances, leading into a floral heart that was soft and radiant. Jasmine, violet, and rose lent a romantic air, while the chypre base grounded the fragrance with earthy oakmoss, patchouli, and a hint of warm woods.
This light chypre was unique in its positioning as a sports fragrance, offering a refined, understated elegance that contrasted with more opulent or gourmand perfumes on the market. By blending modernity with tradition, Parfum C catered to the evolving tastes and lifestyles of the 1920s woman while maintaining the timeless allure of French perfumery.
In the words of Lucien Lelong, Parfum C was "joyous as sunshine," a celebration of youth, vitality, and the art of living beautifully—a true reflection of its era and its creator’s genius.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was described as "delicate" and the "lightest scent" for the "ingenue," it was a light, youthful floral chypre fragrance for women, designed to be worn during sports.
- Top notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, lavender, galbanum
- Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, violet leaf
- Base notes: cedar, patchouli, ambergris, sandalwood, oakmoss, musk, labdanum, tonka bean
Harrisburg Telegraph, 1928:
"Lucien Lelong Parfums Exclusively at Bowmans" . Lelong contributes to the art of ensemble three Parfums in tune with type and costume. Parfum A, the heaviest of the three odors, for the statuesque woman. Parfum B, a lighter scent; for the sophisticated woman of fashion. Parfum C, the lightest scent, for the ingenue. Chic women will be glad to know Lelong Parfums are obtainable here."
Time, 1928:
"Lucien Lelong. At the head of the organization of a Paris dressmaking house is the designer. Under the designer comes the first vendor (chief ... "A," for the exotic woman (or the unexotic woman who, acting out of character, is attending an exotic affair), "B," the perfume for the sport; " C , "the delicate scent for the ingenue."
Scent Profile:
Lucien Lelong’s Parfum C opens with an airy brightness, evoking the feeling of sunlight filtered through the leaves of an orchard. The first breath brings the sparkling citrus of bergamot, lemon, and mandarin—zesty and crisp, with a sweetness that hints at freshly peeled fruit. Lavender threads through this vivid top, lending a calming herbaceous quality, soft yet invigorating, like the scent of summer breezes brushing through flowering fields. Beneath the citrus radiance lies a subtle touch of galbanum, its green, resinous sharpness anchoring the lightness with a naturalistic earthiness.
As the fragrance unfolds, the delicate floral heart blossoms like a sunlit garden in full bloom. A dewy rose emerges first, its petals fresh and velvety, mingling with the luminous warmth of jasmine. The jasmine's creamy, slightly indolic facets add an opulent depth to the composition, while lily of the valley contributes a clean, almost ethereal freshness, like spring air after rainfall. Violet leaf, with its green, slightly powdery aroma, adds an intriguing touch of softness and depth, gently grounding the floral medley while maintaining its youthful charm.
The base notes reveal the enduring elegance of Parfum C, wrapping the wearer in a soft, warm embrace. Cedar and sandalwood bring a creamy, woody foundation, their smoothness balanced by the earthy, mossy depth of oakmoss and patchouli. Ambergris lends a whisper of oceanic salinity, while musk offers a delicate animalic undertone, blending seamlessly with labdanum's resinous, balsamic sweetness. The final note of tonka bean imparts a soft, almond-like warmth, subtly sweet with hints of vanilla and hay, leaving a lingering trail that is both refined and comforting.
Parfum C is a harmonious symphony of lightness and depth, designed to evoke the spirit of youth and vitality. Each note is carefully calibrated to reflect an ingenue’s charm, perfect for the open air and radiant energy of outdoor pursuits. The fragrance dances on the skin, a delicate yet persistent reminder of sunshine, fresh blossoms, and the natural grace of a carefree day.
Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued.
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