Parfum A by Lucien Lelong c1928

Parfum A by Lucien Lelong, launched in 1928, stands as an elegant and deliberate choice in nomenclature. The name "Parfum A" reflects Lelong's innovative approach to fragrance, aligning the letters with the fragrance family: "A" for ambergris, "B" for bouquet, and "C" for chypre. By choosing this naming convention, Lelong established a direct and intuitive connection between the perfume's identity and its essence.

The word "Parfum" is French, pronounced "par-FOOM", meaning "perfume" or "fragrance." The addition of the letter "A" evokes a sense of primacy, exclusivity, and simplicity, implying a fragrance of distinction and elegance. It conjures images of opulence and sophistication, resonating with the desires of women seeking to embody an air of refinement. The name, with its minimalist clarity, exudes an aura of modernity and timeless appeal.

In 1928, Parfum A emerged during the interwar period, a time characterized by both social and artistic transformation. This era, often referred to as the Jazz Age or the Roaring Twenties, was marked by dynamic cultural shifts, technological advancements, and bold fashion statements. Women’s fashion celebrated liberation with shorter hemlines, looser silhouettes, and an embrace of art deco influences. Trends in beauty and fragrance leaned toward dramatic, heady compositions that complemented the confident, modern woman.

Parfum J by Lucien Lelong c1928

Parfum J by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1928.

Parfum C by Lucien Lelong c1928

Launched in 1928, Parfum C was part of Lucien Lelong’s innovative trio of alphabetical perfumes, each designed to embody a distinct personality and purpose. Naming fragrances after numbers or letters was a popular trend in the 1920s, reflecting a streamlined, modern approach to branding. For Lelong, the choice of "C" had a clear intention: it stood for chypre, a fragrance family named after the French word for Cyprus, pronounced "sheep-ruh" in layman’s terms. Chypre perfumes are characterized by their intricate interplay of citrus top notes, floral heart notes, and earthy, mossy bases, conjuring the sun-drenched landscapes and Mediterranean warmth of Cyprus.

Parfum C, described as the "lightest scent" for the ingenue—a youthful, fresh-faced woman—was a delicate, airy floral chypre intended for daytime wear during sports or outdoor activities. It was a fragrance that harmonized with the sunlight, embodying the carefree, radiant energy of youth. In Lelong’s vision, Parfum C was associated with the color yellow, evoking sunshine, vitality, and optimism.

The 1920s, known as the Jazz Age or the Roaring Twenties, was a period of exuberance, innovation, and cultural shifts. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, both socially and sartorially. Shorter hemlines, bobbed haircuts, and bold geometric patterns became the hallmarks of flapper fashion, while the advent of modern sportswear introduced practical yet stylish garments for active lifestyles. Against this backdrop, Parfum C emerged as an accessory perfectly suited to the era’s progressive spirit.

For women of the time, a perfume called "Parfum C" would have been interpreted as fresh, modern, and versatile—qualities that resonated with the active, forward-thinking woman. Its lightness was in line with the trend toward subtler daytime fragrances, which complemented rather than overwhelmed. This was a marked departure from the heavy, ornate perfumes of the preceding Edwardian era, aligning instead with the pared-down elegance and functional chic of the Art Deco period.

Parfum B by Lucien Lelong c1928

Launched in 1928, Parfum B by Lucien Lelong was an emblem of thoughtful design and creative vision. The name itself reflects Lelong's innovative approach to fragrance, as he claimed to name his first three perfumes after their aromatic character. Parfum A, inspired by the warmth of ambergris, Parfum B, symbolizing the beauty of a bouquet, and Parfum C, embodying the freshness of chypre, formed a trio designed to resonate with women of different styles and moments.

In French, "Parfum B" (pronounced “par-fahm bay”) captures the essence of sophistication and femininity. The term evokes imagery of elegance and refinement, conjuring visions of soft florals, graceful gardens, and the serene charm of a fashionable afternoon. For women of the late 1920s, "Parfum B" spoke to a spirit of lightness and poise, an olfactory metaphor for modernity and grace.

The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, was a time of significant cultural transformation. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, reflected in shorter hemlines, boyish silhouettes, and a bold departure from traditional societal norms. The era was marked by art deco, flapper culture, and the rise of Hollywood glamour. Perfume, like fashion, was an integral part of a woman's identity, completing the ensemble and expressing individuality.

Parfum B, described as a "lighter scent for the sophisticated woman of fashion" and ideal for sporting occasions, fit seamlessly into the trends of the time. The concept of a fragrance tailored to an occasion or mood was gaining popularity, and Lelong’s trio of perfumes aligned perfectly with this philosophy.

Parfum L c1931

Parfum L by Lucien Lelong was launched in 1931.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aldehydic chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lemon, aldehydes
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, cinnamon, cloves, orris
• Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, ambergris, labdanum, benzoin, musk, civet

The New Yorker - Volume 8, 1932:

"Parfum L is a gay adventure in perfume... sophisticated, smart and disarmingly persuasive. $3 and up."

Bottle:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong c1934

In 1934, the world was amidst the throes of the Great Depression, a time of economic hardship and cultural shifts. It was an era marked by both resilience and escapism, where the arts flourished as a form of solace and expression against the backdrop of global uncertainty. It was in this context that Parfums Lucien Lelong chose to launch "Sirocco," a fragrance that sought to evoke warmth, allure, and a sense of exoticism.

The name "Sirocco" originates from the warm, dry wind that blows from the Sahara Desert across the Mediterranean Sea into southern Europe. Derived from Arabic (ṣarūq), the term "Sirocco" embodies the essence of a wind that carries with it heat, sand, and a mystical quality.

Choosing "Sirocco" as the name for a perfume was not merely about geographical reference but also about evoking a specific sensory experience. The scent aimed to transport wearers to a place of warmth and sensuality, reminiscent of Mediterranean landscapes kissed by the desert wind. It was a name that promised intrigue, adventure, and a touch of the exotic, appealing to those seeking to escape the mundanity of everyday life during a challenging period.

No. 7 by Lucien Lelong c1950

No. 7 by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1950.