Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Mon Image by Lucien Lelong c1933

Mon Image by Lucien Lelong was launched in 1933, during a time of significant cultural and social change. The early 1930s were marked by the aftermath of the Great Depression, a period of economic hardship and uncertainty. Despite the financial struggles, there was a strong desire for escapism and luxury. The fashion and fragrance industries responded by creating products that offered a sense of elegance and glamour. Paris, the epicenter of fashion and fragrance, remained a beacon of sophistication and style, attracting those who sought to capture and project an image of refined beauty and poise.

The name "Mon Image," pronounced MOHN-EEMAJH, meaning "my image" in French, was a deliberate and evocative choice by Parfums Lucien Lelong. In the context of the 1930s, personal image and identity were becoming increasingly important. People were acutely aware of how they were perceived by others, and fashion and fragrance played a crucial role in shaping one's public persona. The name "Mon Image" suggests a deep connection to personal identity and self-expression, aligning perfectly with the aspirations of individuals striving to present themselves with elegance and distinction.

"Mon Image" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the essence of how a fragrance can enhance and reflect one's personal style and identity. Perfume is not merely a scent; it is an extension of oneself, a silent yet powerful statement of who one is or aspires to be. By choosing a name that translates to "my image," Parfums Lucien Lelong tapped into the intimate and transformative nature of fragrance, emphasizing how it becomes a part of one's self-presentation and allure.

The target audience for a perfume called "Mon Image" would likely be individuals who valued sophistication, elegance, and self-expression. These would be people who appreciated the finer things in life and were keenly aware of the power of scent in creating a memorable impression. They would respond to this perfume with a sense of connection and recognition, understanding that it was crafted to complement and enhance their personal image.

The phrase "Mon Image" evokes images of mirrors and reflections, conjuring feelings of self-awareness and confidence. It suggests a sense of personal pride and the desire to project an idealized version of oneself. The words also bring to mind the artistry involved in curating one's appearance, much like the meticulous process of selecting a fragrance that resonates with one's identity. Feelings of elegance, poise, and sophistication are intertwined with the notion of "Mon Image," creating a powerful and alluring appeal for those seeking to define and enhance their personal brand through the subtle yet impactful medium of fragrance.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women, it was described as "piquant" and had a noticeable tang of crisp carnation. A hint of carnation here to give a top floral note against a background of sandalwood.
  • Top notes: French carnation, aldehydes, Vietnamese cinnamon, Zanzibar cloves, lilac, almond
  • Middle notes: Tunisian orange blossom, Grasse jasmine absolute, heliotrope, Grasse rose absolute, Parma violet, nutmeg
  • Base notes: spices, Madagascar vanilla, French labdanum, Java vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, benzoin, tonka bean

Having a bottle of Mon Image parfum, I was able to detect the soft scent of the "mellis accord". Mon Image may have been built around a special base called Melysflor, a Firmenich base that is the equivalent of Givaudan's Melittis accord. These two bases known as "mellis accords" were made up of benzyl salicylate, patchouli, spicy clove (via eugenol) and lily of the valley (traditionally via the aromachemical hydroxycitronellal), cinnamon, woody notes and coumarin (a crystal derived from tonka beans ).

Melysflor was also used in Jean Patou's Moment Supreme, Voyage a Paris by Corday, Elizabeth Arden's Blue Grass and Dana's Tabu. 



Scent Story:


In the heart of Neiman Marcus, the air buzzed with anticipation as Lucien Lelong himself made his grand entrance to promote the newest fragrance from Parfums Lucien Lelong, "Mon Image." The department reserved for this exclusive event was transformed into a floral wonderland, adorned with fresh carnations, jasmines, and roses. The intoxicating scents of these blooms mingled with the rich fragrance of "Mon Image," creating a sensory tapestry that enveloped the guests.

As you step into the room, the sight is breathtaking. Models glided gracefully around the department, draped in the newest of Lucien Lelong's slinky haute couture. They moved like living works of art, each one embodying the elegance and allure that defined Lelong's fashion house. Their delicate movements created a mesmerizing dance, and their presence was a testament to the seamless blend of fashion and fragrance.

A statuesque model, resplendent in a sumptuous Lucien Lelong gown, commanded attention as she carried a large factice bottle of "Mon Image." She placed it with reverence on a decorative mirrored stand at the center of the room. As a single spotlight beamed directly onto the bottle, it created a radiating glow, reflecting off the mirrors and casting an ethereal light across the space. The effect was enchanting, drawing all eyes to the centerpiece of the event.

The scent of "Mon Image" filled the air, classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women. It was described as "piquant," with a noticeable tang of crisp carnation that lingered in the air. The top notes included the warmth of Vietnamese cinnamon and the exotic spice of Zanzibar cloves, blending harmoniously with the soft sweetness of lilac and almond. These notes teased the senses, inviting guests to draw closer and experience the full complexity of the fragrance.

Lucien Lelong himself stood at the forefront, addressing his guests with charisma and charm. "Mon Image," he explained, was created to be worn with your most modern evening frocks. "Apply a few drops when you want to feel most enchanting," he said, his voice carrying a sense of intimacy and allure. He spoke of the costly raw materials sourced from around the world, highlighting the exquisite French carnation, Tunisian orange blossom, Grasse jasmine absolute, heliotrope, Grasse rose absolute, and Parma violet that formed the heart of the fragrance.

The middle notes enveloped the guests in a floral embrace, each scent carefully chosen to evoke a sense of timeless beauty and sophistication. The base notes, rich and grounding, included spices, Madagascar vanilla, French labdanum, Java vetiver, ambergris, Tonkin musk, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, benzoin, and tonka bean. These elements added depth and complexity, creating a lingering trail that captivated the senses.

As you mingle with the other guests, you hear the soft murmur of conversations and the gentle clinking of glasses. Models offered small vials of the perfume, allowing guests to experience "Mon Image" firsthand. Others circulated with mirrored plates, offering small hors d'oeuvres that complemented the sensory experience. The taste of delicate canapés, paired with the rich aroma of the fragrance, created a harmonious blend of flavors and scents.

The atmosphere was filled with the soft strains of classical music, enhancing the elegance of the evening. Every detail, from the tactile feel of the luxurious fabrics of the gowns to the smooth surface of the mirrored plates, contributed to the overall sensory indulgence.

Lucien Lelong's event at Neiman Marcus was more than just a fragrance launch; it was a celebration of artistry, luxury, and the timeless appeal of "Mon Image." The experience was a testament to the enduring legacy of Lucien Lelong, capturing the essence of his vision and leaving an indelible mark on all who attended.

Bottles:


Stacked Bottles:


The bottle of Mon Image parfum by Lucien Lelong is a masterpiece of luxury and design, embodying the elegance and sophistication of the Art Deco movement. The flacon, crafted from clear crystal, showcases the influence of Cubism with its geometric precision and clean lines. The body of the bottle is characterized by its distinctive stacked shape, which exudes a sense of architectural beauty. Each side of the bottle features three horizontal-cut ribs, subtly rounded at the corners, adding a tactile dimension that invites touch and admiration.

The attention to detail extends to the bottle's closure. It boasts a tiny glass inner stopper, ensuring the preservation of the precious fragrance within. The glass overcap is adorned with an intaglio of the "LL" logo, elegantly set within a square on the top. This emblematic detail not only signifies the brand's identity but also enhances the overall aesthetic of the bottle, marrying functionality with artistic flair. The miniature bottles, while lacking the inner glass stopper and overcap, retain a single stopper that maintains the elegance and practicality of the design in a more compact form.

Complementing the exquisite bottle is its luxurious presentation box. The cardboard box is covered with genuine mirrored glass panels, reflecting the opulence and sophistication associated with Lucien Lelong's creations. This mirrored finish not only serves as a stunning visual element but also reinforces the theme of reflection and image, resonating with the perfume's name, "Mon Image." The box's design, like the bottle, is a testament to the era's emphasis on luxury, craftsmanship, and the harmonious blend of form and function.

The Mon Image bottle and its presentation are not merely containers for the fragrance but integral parts of the overall experience. They evoke the grandeur and style of the Art Deco period, reflecting the high standards of design and elegance that Lucien Lelong was renowned for. Each aspect of the bottle and its packaging contributes to a sense of timeless beauty and refined taste, making it a cherished object for collectors and a symbol of sophistication for its owners.
  • Ref. 250 - 1/8 oz (1 dram, considered the miniature) glass stoppered bottle stands 1 5/8" tall.
  • 1/4 oz brass screw capped bottle stands 1.75" tall.
  • Ref. 500 - 1/4 oz bottle stands 2.25" tall.
  • 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall
  • 1 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall.
  • stands 6" tall

In 1935, The New Yorker lauded "Mon Image" by Lucien Lelong, highlighting its captivating and distinctive character. The magazine described the fragrance as "piquant and arresting," evoking the feeling of being the star of an opening night performance. This comparison underscored the perfume's ability to make its wearer feel special and unforgettable, much like the leading role in a grand production. Alongside "Mon Image," Lelong's "Gardenia" was also mentioned, celebrated as a perfume "in the grand manner," reinforcing Lelong's reputation for creating luxurious and elegant scents.

By 1937, Marie-Claire provided a more targeted endorsement, describing "Mon Image" as a perfume for brunettes. This characterization suggested that the fragrance's rich and complex notes complemented the mysterious and sophisticated allure often associated with dark-haired women. The magazine's endorsement not only guided potential buyers but also enhanced the allure of the perfume, making it seem tailor-made for a specific and glamorous demographic.




In 1939, the Drug and Cosmetic Industry magazine reported on Lucien Lelong's introduction of sachets in five of his fragrances, including Impromptu, Indiscreet, Mon Image, Opening Night, and Whisper. These highly concentrated sachets were presented in handsome crystal bottles with gold caps, elevating the luxury and convenience of Lelong's offerings. This innovation allowed women to carry a touch of Lelong's elegance with them, ensuring that they could experience the essence of his perfumes anytime, anywhere.

Life magazine in 1934 captured the excitement of "Mon Image," describing its floral odor as "exciting" and noting its presentation in a mirror bottle. This packaging choice not only highlighted the perfume's aesthetic appeal but also its function as a reflection of the wearer's image and persona. The mirrored bottle symbolized the duality of appearance and essence, making "Mon Image" not just a fragrance but an extension of one's identity.

Finally, in 1938, Woman's Home Companion celebrated "Mon Image" in its famed mirror box, describing it as "a reflection of yourself in fragrance." This evocative description reinforced the intimate connection between the wearer and the perfume. The wide price range of $2.50 to $100 made it accessible to a diverse audience, while still maintaining its luxurious allure.

Through these various endorsements and descriptions, "Mon Image" by Lucien Lelong was portrayed as a perfume of sophistication, elegance, and personal resonance. Each mention highlighted different aspects of its appeal, from its distinctive scent and luxurious packaging to its targeted demographic and innovative presentation methods.


Lalique Bottles:


The bottle used for the Mon Image parfum stands out as a unique example in the world of perfume bottles, distinguished by its connection to the famed glassmaker René Lalique, despite not being designed by him. Manufactured at Lalique's renowned works in Wingen-sur-Moder, the bottle showcases the exquisite craftsmanship and high standards of production associated with Lalique's atelier. This collaboration is notable given the context of Lalique's previous work for Lucien Lelong, highlighting the mutual respect and friendship between the designer and the perfumer.

Lalique had previously designed two bottles for Lucien Lelong, in 1930 and 1931, during a period when the simplicity and elegance of their designs captured the essence of the Art Deco movement. These early fragrances, simply named "A", "B", and "C", reflected a minimalist approach in both naming and design. The most memorable of these bottles is Lalique's 1930 "draped dress" design, which was used for the "skyscraper" presentation. This bottle remains iconic for its elegant lines and the way it embodied the architectural and fashionable sensibilities of the time.

In contrast, the Mon Image bottle, though not designed by Lalique, carries forward the legacy of exquisite design and craftsmanship. Its stacked shape, horizontal-cut ribs, and clear crystal composition reflect a Cubist influence, while also showcasing the advanced techniques and attention to detail that were hallmarks of Lalique's production facility. The bottle's design is both modern and timeless, resonating with the elegance that Lalique's name implies, even without his direct design input.

The decision to have the Mon Image bottle manufactured at Lalique's works, despite not being designed by Lalique himself, underscores the trust and collaboration between Lelong and Lalique. It also highlights the importance of maintaining the highest standards of quality and artistry in perfume presentation. This unique collaboration resulted in a bottle that not only held a luxurious fragrance but also served as a testament to the enduring legacy of both Lucien Lelong's and René Lalique's contributions to the world of perfumery and design.

After the creation of the Mon Image bottle, Lucien Lelong made a pivotal decision to personally design all future bottles for his perfumes, a commitment he maintained from 1932 until his retirement in 1950. This marked a significant shift in his approach to fragrance presentation, demonstrating his dedication to ensuring that the visual aesthetics of his perfumes matched the quality and sophistication of the scents themselves. Lelong’s hands-on involvement in the design process reflected his deep understanding of the interplay between fashion, fragrance, and visual artistry.

In 1933, during his burgeoning career as a costume designer, Lelong designed the costumes for Marlene Dietrich in the film "The Scarlet Empress." Inspired by her magnetic presence and timeless elegance, he decided to dedicate a perfume to her, naming it "Mon Image." The name itself, meaning "my image" in French, was a fitting tribute to Dietrich’s iconic image and her influence on the fashion and film industries. Lelong’s choice to honor her in this way highlighted his appreciation for her as a muse and a symbol of glamour.

However, Lelong’s frugality led him to entrust the production of the Mon Image bottles to a mediocre glassmaker, resulting in a flawed initial batch where all the bottles leaked. This misstep threatened to tarnish the reputation of his newly dedicated perfume. Recognizing the severity of the situation, René Lalique, out of pure friendship and respect for Lelong, stepped in to rectify the problem. Lalique’s intervention ensured that the production of the Mon Image bottles met the high standards expected of a luxury fragrance. From 1933 to 1936, Lalique oversaw the production of these bottles, ensuring their quality and durability.

Lalique’s involvement was not just an act of professional courtesy but a testament to the strong bond between the two men. His willingness to assist Lelong during this challenging period exemplified the collaborative spirit that often characterized the creative industries of the time. It also underscored the importance of maintaining the integrity of the product, especially in an era when brand reputation and customer trust were paramount. The Mon Image bottle, with Lalique’s touch, ultimately became a symbol of elegance and resilience, embodying the enduring legacy of Lucien Lelong’s vision and Lalique’s craftsmanship.

 



WWII Wartime Editions:

 
Like other perfumers of the period, Lucien Lelong had to adapt to wartime restrictions on importing and exporting bottles, raw materials, and other supplies. These constraints forced Lelong to pivot from the elaborate, luxurious designs he was known for, opting instead for simpler, less ornate bottles and presentations. This pragmatic approach ensured the continued production of his perfumes despite the challenging circumstances. By streamlining the design and packaging, Lelong demonstrated resilience and ingenuity, maintaining the essence of his fragrances while navigating the limitations imposed by the war. This shift not only reflected the broader industry's adaptation strategies but also highlighted Lelong's commitment to his craft and to providing his customers with quality products despite the adversity.
 

Other Bottles:


Another notable bottle in Lucien Lelong's collection is the atomizer flacon, which held 2.5 ounces of Perfumed Cologne. This bottle stands 5 inches tall, featuring a sleek and functional design that aligns with the practical needs of the era while still retaining an element of elegance. The atomizer, with its convenient spray mechanism, offered a modern and accessible way to apply the fragrance, catering to the evolving preferences of consumers. The streamlined form and modest size of the bottle made it an ideal addition to any vanity, combining practicality with the enduring sophistication that characterized Lelong's creations.







Fate of the Fragrance:


The perfume Mon Image by Lucien Lelong was eventually discontinued, although the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown. Despite this, it continued to be available for purchase until at least 1958, indicating its sustained popularity and the enduring appeal of its floral scent and sophisticated packaging. The continued sales into the late 1950s reflect the lasting legacy of Lelong's creation, maintaining its place in the market for decades and serving as a testament to its quality and the loyalty of its customers.


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