Monday, May 11, 2015

Keep Perfume in Dark

A March 26, 1928 article in the Reading Eagle newspaper:
"KEEP PERFUME IN DARK, PARISIAN ADVISES. Air and sunlight may change finest odors, according to French expert. Have you ever wondered why the perfume on your dressing table seems to change odor week from week? Perhaps you have been puzzled by a fragrance which smelled agreeable at the time  you bought it, becomes commonplace or even unpleasant after you have used it a few weeks, writes a Paris correspondent of the Kansas City Star. 
Such thoughts may be considered a confession - an admission that you have not learned how to care for your perfume. These delicate scents for which fashion orders for modern  use particularly when they are of high quality, deteriorate and lose all traces of their original fragrance if they are handled remissly. 
"Always keep perfume in a dark place, advises Lucien Lelong, the Paris dressmaker whose study of perfume has resulted in valuable suggestions for its use. "Daylight will affect every odor differently according to its formula, and in extreme cases, the perfume turns bright red as soon as its exposed to the sun. 
Jasmine becomes black in the light, other flower extracts darken less noticeably, but as soon as they change color, even slightly, the perfume changes scent. According to Monsieur Lelong, certain chemicals suffer similarly as a result of exposure to light. If a product such as indol has been used in the perfume, it will form ether and emit a foul odor soon after it is allowed to stand in the sun. 
So carefully must the elements that compose a perfume be guarded that many of the more fragile extracts are bought in a discolored state by the perfumer to prevent darkening after they have been mixed. Discolored floral elements cost a great deal more than flowers in a natural state and they are reserved for expensive perfumes.  
The need is evident for keeping perfume flacons tightly stoppered. Air, sunlight will harm the scent and carelessness in keeping the odor airtight results in a noticeable loss strength and quality."

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Parfum L c1931

Parfum L by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1931.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aldehydic chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lemon, aldehydes
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, cinnamon, cloves, orris
  • Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, ambergris, labdanum, benzoin, musk, civet



The New Yorker - Volume 8, 1932:
"Parfum L is a gay adventure in perfume... sophisticated, smart and disarmingly persuasive. $3 and up."


Bottle:



Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.



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